The Journal Guides
Pothos cuttings not rooting? What to check
A clear glass and a short record can tell you where to look next.
If a pothos cutting is not rooting in water, check that it has a piece of stem with a node, that the rooting part remains in water, and that it receives bright, indirect light. Then look at the condition of the stem. A firm, slow cutting needs a different response from one that is soft and deteriorating.
Start with those observations before adding products to the water or taking the cutting apart. A clear glass makes the process visible, but it can also tempt you to inspect it every few hours. Give yourself a short, repeatable check instead.
Does the cutting include a node?
The node is the point on the stem where a leaf attaches. Pothos is propagated from stem cuttings, as described in the RHS houseplant-cutting guide. A leaf on its own does not give you the same starting material as a suitable section of stem.
Look at the cutting alongside a photograph of the parent plant if you have one. Identify the leaf joint rather than assuming that the longest piece will work best. For the next attempt, prepare the container first so you can place a healthy, freshly cut stem promptly.
Check water and light together
Iowa State University's propagation guidance recommends bright, indirect light and frequent water changes for water-rooted cuttings. Its general advice is to change the water once or twice a week and keep developing roots covered. Too little light can slow rooting; excessive light can damage foliage.
Write the water-change day in the same place you record when the cutting went in. Look at the water level between changes, particularly in a narrow tube. A routine based only on the day of the week can miss a vessel that has become too low.
Place it where you can lift out the glass without reaching across electrical equipment. Our New Roots propagation station holds four removable tubes in a timber frame. Take the tubes out to rinse and keep the frame dry. The plants are yours to add.
Slow growth or a deteriorating stem?
Note what you can see. Has the stem stayed firm? Is the leaf still in reasonable condition? Has the submerged section become soft? Those details are more useful than the number of days alone.
| Observation | What to check next |
|---|---|
| A firm cutting with no visible roots | Node, light, water level and the date it was taken |
| Leaves beneath the water | The cutting's preparation and position in the vessel |
| A soft or visibly deteriorating stem | Remove it from the shared setup and reassess the cutting |
| Roots beginning to form | Keep observing rather than changing everything at once |
A deteriorating cutting is a reason to pause and clean the vessel before trying again with healthy material. Don't assume that adding more fertiliser will correct an unsuitable cutting or poor conditions. For an uncertain plant problem, take a clear photograph and use a horticultural advice service.
How long should you wait?
The RHS gives a general rooting period of around three to four weeks for houseplant stem cuttings. It recommends taking them during active growth and potting up water-rooted cuttings after roots develop and growth begins. Use that as a rough guide and watch how your cutting develops.
Record the date and make a small weekly note. With four separate tubes, you can compare cuttings without tangling them together. Keep the plant type and starting date clear, especially if the tubes contain cuttings taken at different times.
Prepare for the next stage
Once the cutting is ready, have a small pot and suitable compost waiting. A propagation station is a useful place to watch roots develop; the next job is deciding where the resulting plant will grow.
Our pothos propagation guide covers the starting method. If the position in your home is the difficult part, our windowsill guide offers a way to observe the light, while keeping the different needs of herbs and houseplant cuttings in mind.